And then off to Pai
Pai, a small town about 4 hours north of Chiang Mai, is often part of travel plans and a great place to spend a few nights. So what is Pai exactly? A small town still carrying an old hippie vibe — from young people with dreadlocks and bare feet on the main street to, well, older folks with dreadlocks and bare feet on the main street. It’s a place with plenty of parties, but just 500 meters outside town you can be relaxing in a resort overlooking rice fields.
Getting there is fairly easy — several companies run multiple mini-vans back and forth daily. Check out https://12go.asia for options. Keep in mind that during high season (November through February), the vans are often fully booked days in advance. If you’re in a hurry and everything is booked, you can just go to the Arcade Bus Terminal (Bus Terminal 2), hang around a bit, and see if any spots open up.
Another way to get to Pai is by motorbike. First, read the section about renting a motorbike elsewhere on this page before you consider that. The first 20-30 kilometers from Chiang Mai can be quite hectic traffic-wise. After that, it’s a beautiful, well-paved road with the famous 762 curves. If you want to ride light, take a small backpack and leave your big backpack at your hostel for a few days — or there’s a company called “Aya Services” that will transport your luggage to Pai (and back) for a fee. Oh, and if you decide to rent a motorbike, ask for a phone holder for your handlebars — it’s way more convenient than without.
Traffic in Pai itself isn’t always super safe: there are many beginner riders who sometimes confuse the throttle and the brake, and you’ll notice quite a few backpackers walking around with bandages on their arms or legs.
If you decide to go by motorbike, follow this route: https://maps.app.goo.gl/fjfLsvRxeRm3gn8d7. It follows the river north for the first 20-30 km and mostly avoids the highway outside town. After that, you head west onto the relatively quiet road to Pai. The waypoints are there because Google tends to reroute you back to the highway, but you can dismiss those as you go. Another alternative is the Mae Hong Son Loop: a 3-4 day route northwest of Chiang Mai that also passes through Pai — lots of forests, mountains, and curves. Here’s an explanation and report about the Mae Hong Son Loop.
The return trip is the same — if you want to continue traveling, you’ll have to go back to Chiang Mai first. From there, buses head north, and trains and flights go south.
